Testing label durability

Four years ago, in November of 2019, Graphics Output began our scientific journey of our Weather Testing Board. (This blog was published in December 2023). We are currently using this board to test the durability of various print methods and materials in Midwestern weather over several years. Photos are taken monthly to document the progress of decay for a variety of factors.

Photographing the weather board, November, 2019.

Changes we’ve been watching for:

1. Image/color fading
2. Peeling or cracking
3. Polycarbonate or polyester yellowing
4. Adhesive failure
5. Delamination

The Conditions

• The test board is made of painted metal and sits against a building facing east, with all other directions exposed to the elements.
• The test board was thoroughly cleaned with alcohol before we applied any decals.
• Over the timeline of the test, the board is exposed to sun, wind, rain, snow, and ice.

Section One tests various ink durability for:

• Digital roll solvent ink
• Digital roll solvent ink with 1 mil polyester over-lamination
• Screen print UV ink
• Digital flatbed UV ink
• Digital gel UV ink

The hypothesis: Graphics Output believes the digital roll solvent ink will fade first, and the screen print UV ink or the digital gel UV ink will fade last.

The results: The flatbed ink without lamination has faded the most from its original state, with the digital roll solvent ink without lamination following close behind. Overall the inks have not faded much, if any, in the past four years.

Section Two tests screen print ink color durability for:

Nazdar 3500 Series Ink, designed for vinyl films with exterior applications, in the following colors…

• Yellow
• Orange
• Red
• Blue
• Black

The hypothesis: Graphics Output believes that the red or yellow ink will fade first and the black ink will fade last.

The results: The yellow ink has started to fade slightly, but overall the inks have not faded much, if any, in the past four years.

Section Three tests subsurface printed materials and various flatbed UV ink colors durability, including:

• Standard polycarbonate (10 mil 8B35)
• Hard-coated weatherable polycarbonate (10 mil HP12W)
• Hard-coated weatherable polyester (8 mil Autotex® F200XE)

The hypothesis: Graphics Output believes that the standard polycarbonate will fade or delaminate first, and the weatherable polyester will fade or delaminate last.

The results: The standard polycarbonate has faded the most and has yellowed severely. That is to be expected, as there is no built-in UV resistance. Overall, none of the inks have faded much, if any, in the past four years, with no signs of delamination.

Overall results:

Most inks and materials used on the weather testing board have warranty lifespans of 5+ years, so the lack of fading, peeling, and cracking after only four years was expected.

Durability plays a huge role in decision-making when it comes to purchasing decals for your outdoor equipment. While many of our suppliers test their materials in weather chambers, which exaggerate and accelerate the effects of different weather elements, Graphics Output is taking the direct approach to see how long our decals actually last. If you have questions about shelf-life or durability of decals, contact us today by giving us a call at (260) 748-0577 or emailing sales@gographicsoutput.com.

This is the third post in a multi-part series. Check out our first post here and our two-year update here. We plan to continue to take monthly photos documenting the board and the effects of the elements and post additional occasional updates. Stay tuned for our results!

OSHA safety labels – they’re not just stickers with a few warnings that people slap up. In this blog, we’re diving into the critical role these labels play in keeping your workplace safe. Hold onto your hard hats; it’s time to explore why OSHA compliance labels are far more than meets the eye.

Understanding OSHA Safety Labels

You’ve seen them everywhere, from electrical boxes to hygiene reminders. But do you know what makes OSHA safety decals so important? They’re not there to make the workplace environment look pretty or professional. OSHA labels come in various forms, each designed for a specific purpose. From flammable substance icons to chemical warnings, these labels do more than stick around – they keep your workplace safe.

Workplace Safety and Employee Well-being

OSHA decals aren’t just there to make your workspace look official; they exist to protect your most valuable assets – your employees. Think about it – without OSHA labels, how would your team know exactly when and where to wear essential personal protective equipment (PPE) like goggles, gloves, hard hats, and safety vests? OSHA compliance decals prepare employees for the job, help prevent accidents, and ensure your team goes home in one piece.

Legal Compliance and Avoiding Fines

Here’s another sobering thought: OSHA non-compliance can lead to hefty fines. We’re not trying to scare you, but it’s a fact. Companies that disregard safety regulations are playing with fire. Fines for serious violations range from just over $1,000 up to $15,625 per violation. Multiple fines can cripple or kill small businesses. Nobody wants to face penalties or a damaged reputation, but neglecting OSHA standards can leave you without a company.

OSHA-Compliant Labels for Your Needs

Before seeking durable OSHA decals, it’s crucial to identify your specific label and signage needs. Consider involving your insurance company in the process, as they can conduct a thorough walkthrough of your workplace to pinpoint areas where labels and signs are essential for enhancing safety and compliance.

Once you’ve clarified your needs, it’s time to find a supplier that specializes in durable, high-quality decals. Choose a partner that understands the importance of accuracy and longevity of safety labels. After all, when it’s about keeping your employees safe and your business compliant, you deserve the best.

In a world where safety matters, OSHA labels are silent heroes. They protect your employees and your business. Don’t settle for plain stickers when you can have OSHA-compliant labels that keep you out of trouble.

Ready to boost your workplace safety? Email us at sales@gographicsoutput.com for custom OSHA labels that work as hard as you do.

Surprising to many, a “mil” varies greatly from a “millimeter.” In addition to sounding nearly identical, both measure the thicknesses of materials in the manufacturing industry. But when talking about decals, the unit “mil” is much more common, equivalent to one-thousandth of an inch, or 0.001 inch. A millimeter is almost 40 times thicker than that, or approximately 0.0394 inch. So despite the similar sounding names, confusing the two is worse than mixing up thin crust and deep dish pizza.

What measurement term for which material?

Different types of materials usually have a standard unit of measurement across all suppliers. Here’s the de facto list outlining when to use which measurement, covering mils, millimeters, and more.

PSA Backed Films: Mils

Pressure-sensitive adhesive-backed films like vinyl and polyester, along with transfer adhesives, are measured in mils.

Rigid Sheet Graphic Films: Mils

Polycarbonate, polyester, rigid PVC, and aluminum all use mils for thickness callouts.

POP/POS Signage Flatstock: Millimeters

The thickness of signage materials including expanded PVC (aka Celtec or Sintra), Gatorfoam, and Maxmetal are all measured in millimeters.

Paper: Caliper points (not type points!)

Heavyweight paper and cardstock thicknesses are measured in caliper points. Note that caliper points are not the same as font or type points, which measure the font height. To make matters more confusing, 1 caliper point represents 1/1,000 inch, the exact same thickness as a mil. (If you’re curious, a font point is 1/72 inch.)

Banner Material: Weight in ounces

Banner vinyl thickness is measured by the weight of 1 square yard of material. For example, 13 oz vinyl weighs 13 ounces per square yard. The higher the number, the heavier (and thicker) the vinyl.

Common Thicknesses of Graphic Substrates

Does material thickness matter?

Yes and no. Honestly, don’t read too much into thicknesses for decals. Standards are standards for a reason, and a label’s other properties play a much larger role in determining its durability.

Instead, first prioritize other factors: Select polyester for its high-temperature ratings and chemical resistance. Use cast vinyl for its outdoor durability against shrinkage and, in most cases, its ability to conform to complex curves. Super thick laminated vinyl with adhesive made to stick to plastic was developed specifically for motocross bikes and ATVs that often get scraped in crashes. Thicker signs will be more rigid and durable, but also heavier. So if signs will be hanging, opt for the thinner, lighter option.

In short, once you select the best material and desired usage, then consider thickness.

Still not down with the thickness? Email sales@gographicsoutput.com or give us a call at (260) 748-0577 when determining the material thickness for your next project. We’d be happy to talk you through it.

Quality inspection and control can be a pain. Visually searching for small scratches or debris, only to have to get a ruler to see if the marks pass quality standards specifications, can feel tedious at best and downright annoying at worst.

Honestly, why should it? Why is it so hard? We’ll let you in on a secret: Visual inspection can be simplified with one little tool: an inspection gauge. Get ready – we’re about to change the way you do QC.

What are inspection gauges?

Visual inspection gauges, also known as appearance standard gauges and quality control gauges, are clear templates used to identify visual defects in glass, paint, clear coats, and lamination. They often measure points and millimeters (mm) but can be customized for your shop’s needs. They make quick work of inspection, provide convenient and effective measurement, and simplify and standardize the QC process. Save time and say goodbye to answering the same questions every day: Does this look okay? Does this pass inspection?

Different Types of Inspection Gauges

While plenty of quality reference tools are found across a variety of industries, visual flaw detection cards can be grouped into three main categories.

1. Appearance standard cards are commonly used in the manufacturing industry to inspect glass and paint. They’re used to efficiently identify and estimate the size of defects and scratches. These cards can be used with products on assembly lines and in final inspection stages.

2. Crack comparator gauges are commonly used in the manufacturing industry to inspect glass and paint. They’re used to efficiently identify and estimate the size of defects and scratches. These cards can be used with products on assembly lines and in final inspection stages. measure cracks in new and existing concrete and masonry structures. They’re an ideal, low-cost alternative to a graduated microscope for inspectors.

3. Printed graphic inspection gauges identify and measure defects in printed or laminated graphics. The most common defects include pinholes in printed ink and debris caught under clear overlaminate or in screen-printed clear coats.

How to Design the Perfect Inspection Tool for Your Team

The best gauges are tailor-made for your industry and can even be designed to meet your specific needs. Here are some things to consider when designing your custom defect gauge:

• Rulers with relevant measurement systems and units, such as millimeters vs. inches.
• Defect measurement circles, labeled in millimeters or point sizes, in relevant colors, based on how the gauge will be used. For example, will you use the gauge against a light or dark background? Depending on the answer, select white, black, or clear defect measurement circles.
• measurement circles.
• Density/intensity/thickness references, such as light, medium, or dark.

Some defects are more obvious than others, and a density reference chart like this one can help you visualize what is acceptable and what isn’t.

• Radius guides for the distance between defects or for counting the number of defects in a specific-sized area.
• Lines of specific lengths.
• A basic outline of how to use the gauge.
• Criteria for acceptable defects, or reference to a set of quality standards. Check out our blog post for more help defining these standards.

1st surface printing occurs when ink is printed on top of the material, and 2nd surface printing, also known as subsurface printing, occurs when ink is printed on the back of the material.

Save yourself the headache of dutifully whipping out a ruler to measure every tiny scratch ever again. Inspection gauges are the perfect reference tools for QC departments, and branded ones can even double as promotional items.

Ready to change the lives of your QC team by designing a sweet custom gauge? Drop us a line at sales@gographicsoutput.com or (260) 748-0577.

There are two things we know to be true: People in distress call for Superman, and harsh environments call for heavy-duty decals. Extreme temperatures and outdoor exposure can pose significant problems to the lifespan of your graphics, but corrosive chemicals do the most damage in the least amount of time (the Lex Luthor, if you will). Today, we’re reviewing the basics (and the acids, ba dum-tss) to help you learn how to combat corrosive solutions.

For the harshest chemicals…

Industrial, medical, and aircraft environments use abrasive chemicals and solvents for both cleaning and creating chemical bonds. Solutions such as acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, and hydrochloric acid break down many typical materials used for basic labels and overlays. Instead, we recommend using hard-coated polyester and polycarbonate films. They’ll protect graphics underneath a clear substrate, and the hard coat will provide the additional chemical resistance that uncoated materials lack. Think of it as an Iron Man suit on your graphic film.

Graphics that will interact with severe, Thanos-level solvents should be made from anodized aluminum, which is practically impervious to chemicals and corrosion.

For the lesser chemicals…

Graphics that come in contact with less intense, Loki-level chemicals still require some form of corrosion resistance. Common household cleaners can break down or haze decals. Polyester is inherently chemical resistant and makes a great choice for labels and overlays that need a little more protection. Even laminating vinyl decals with a polyester overlaminate can help them withstand light cleaning for years to come.

For graphics exposed to sunscreen and DEET…

Skincare products are the most unaccounted-for chemicals to protect your decals against. Sunscreen and DEET-based insect repellents can wreak havoc on hard-coated materials by staining, hazing, and accelerating their disintegration. If your product may be exposed to either of these two substances, make sure to use a hard-coated product specifically formulated to resist them, like Tekra’s Marnot Advanced.

Specialty hardcoated polyester is the best option for overlays that are subject to harsh chemicals.

What about graphics printed on very chemical-resistant plastic, like polypropylene?

Printable polymer films are less ideal than you’d think. Because they are so chemically inert, they must be pretreated to accept printing or lamination. It’s not that the material won’t hold up but that the ink that will fail. Adding lamination to the print will increase ink’s durability. In the end, the ink’s resistance properties rely on what lies between it and the chemicals.

1st surface printing occurs when ink is printed on top of the material, and 2nd surface printing, also known as subsurface printing, occurs when ink is printed on the back of the material.

Generally, polyester is the way to go when choosing a standard base material for your chemically resistant label or overlay. The addition of a hardcoat can prevent the breakdown or failure of a part if it will be exposed to certain solvents.

When you’re ready to get those super-powered decals into production, give Graphics Output a shout at 260-748-0577 or sales@gographicsoutput.com. We’ll be armed and ready when you need us.

Print-industry veterans know the phrases “first surface” and “second surface” well, but the meanings aren’t as clear as one might think: They refer to which side of the material an image is printed on. First surface printing occurs when ink is printed on top of the material, and second surface (or subsurface) printing occurs when ink is printed on the back of the material.

First Surface Printing

Traits:

• When looking at the image from the front, the ink is on top of the material.
• The image is right-reading, meaning it looks like the text in this blog. Consider a rubber stamp: The stamp itself is wrong-reading (backward), so when ink is applied and the rubber is pressed to paper, the image is right-reading.
• The base material may be opaque or clear.
• The adhesive will almost always be found on the back of the print.
• This provides a more traditional look for signs.
• If needed, UV and abrasion resistance can be added on top of the ink by adding a protective layer of lamination, clear ink, or polyurethane dome.

Items typically first surface printed include…

• Branding and logo decals.
• Warning labels.
• Hang tags and cards.
• Decals with opaque base materials, including specialty materials such as shiny chrome metalized polyester, carbon-fiber vinyl, and reflective vinyl.

An array of first surface printed labels and decals.

Second Surface Printing

Traits:

• When looking at the image from the front, the ink is underneath the material.
• The image is printed as a mirror image (backward).
• It is also known as “subsurface printing”.
• The base material must be clear/transparent, otherwise, you wouldn’t see the final image.
• Adhesive may be found on either the front or back of the print, depending on the final application.
• Second-surface printing offers a more modern look for signs. Using thick, clear materials like transparent acrylic can be second surface printed for an interesting, high-end look.
• The amount of UV and abrasion resistance is determined by the layers of material and/or surfaces in between the ink and the viewer.

An image of clear acrylic that has been subsurface printed.

Items typically second surface printed include…

• Graphic overlays for control panels.
• Window decals that will be applied to the inside of the window but need to be viewed from the outside.

Left: A flatbed printer subsurface printing control panel overlays on clear polycarbonate material.
Right: A subsurface printed window cling applied to the inside of a car window.

1st surface printing occurs when ink is printed on top of the material, and 2nd surface printing, also known as subsurface printing, occurs when ink is printed on the back of the material.

At this point you should feel pretty confident in when to use each term, but when in doubt, remember this handy rhyme: “First surface, ink on top. Second surface, ink backdrop!” (And if you’re still confused after all that, just email us at sales@gographicsoutput.com and we’ll help you decide on the perfect printing method for your application.)

Writing up specifications for engineer drawings can be a daunting task. Graphics suppliers can help with the task, but few customers recognize that complicated specs are good for only vendors and material manufacturers. The more complex a callout, the more restrictive your manufacturing options—which poses a problem if your current supplier runs into issues.

Cleaning up and simplifying specs makes them easier to understand and expand upon. Plus, cleaned-up specs are easier to substitute in times of crisis. (And haven’t we all heard “supply chain issues” enough for two lifetimes?)

Editing out the extra is easier said than done. This is how the pros do it.

Keep It Simple, Smartypants

High-level references are key when streamlining build specs for graphics. Try using generic material terms paired with performance standards.

To do this, avoid calling out manufacturers and their products by name, such as 3M, Avery, or Lexan. Instead, opt for general substrate terms (vinyl, polyester, polycarbonate) paired with finishes, textures, and colors.

In addition to these general terms, remember to include relevant performance standards:

• What type of surface will your graphic need to adhere to?
• Does this part require UV protection? If so, for how many years?
• Is there a required lifespan for your decal? And, no, “forever” doesn’t count.

Not Important? Not Included!

Why add information that isn’t relevant? For example, simple vinyl decals are usually somewhere between 2 mil (0.002”) and 5 mil (0.005”) thick, which is rarely relevant during application or end-use.

If it is important to have a 2mm cast vinyl for complex curves, skip the specifics and instead call out “cast vinyl for complex curves.”

Here’s a silly example: Think of the “No shoes, no shirt, no service” signs. Making its point doesn’t require images of steel-toe boots and a green Ralph Lauren shirt. Any old shirt and shoes will suffice.

References Available Upon Request

Referencing internal or external standards is an easy way to simplify the specs that appear on a drawing.

Internal standards include material or branding guides. These broad documents are made to cover company-wide standards. By keeping them broad, your team won’t need to update the specs for every single part if something changes.

Pro Tip: It’s good practice to add a revision level to your drawing if material or branding standards change enough to impact the art or build of that part.

External standards usually pertain to specific industries or graphic types, such as the ANSI (America National Standard for Safety Colors) Z535 Standard for safety headers/colors or the ASTM D4956 Standard Specification for Retroreflective Sheeting.

Instead of calling out each color on a safety decal, just say that all header colors must comply with ANSI Z535.1. Done. Easy.

In short, try to keep your callouts to high-level info only, omit anything non-critical, and reference internal and external standards when possible. Keeping these details simple can save you time, money, and the occasional headache. Need hands-on help? Get in touch with us at 260-748-0577 or sales@gographicsoutput.com, and we’ll help you write specifications so simple, those without a Ph.D. in print engineering will understand them.

We’re back at it again, putting on our goatees and weird hats to bust a myth or two (or five) from the graphics and printing industry. Be prepared to get smarter in 3 … 2 …

1. Print designs are interchangeable with electronic and web designs

One design does not fit all. Web pages use a combo of red, green, and blue (often called RGB) light to create color. Printed parts, on the other hand, use either a combo of teeny-tiny ink dots in cyan, magenta, yellow, and black (CMYK) or mixed pigments (spot colors). Not optimizing designs for their end-use can cause discrepancies between the final product and the intended colors, which is not ideal.

Close-ups of RGB lights from an LED monitor (left) and CMYK dot patterns (right).

2. CMYK print files cannot include Pantones colors

Let’s say you know your graphics supplier uses a digital CMYK printing press to get your jobs done. That means you should set your artwork up with CMYK values, right? Wrong! For critical colors, you need to include Pantone callouts (aka PMS spot colors) in your art. That’s because every press prints CMYK values a little differently. Without those PMS spot colors, you may not end up with the color you want.

3. Every logo can be produced exactly as a pre-spaced vinyl decal

Little designs in logos, including the registered trademark (®) and the plain trademark (™) symbols, often cannot be produced with kiss-cut vinyl because they’re so small. Such tiny pieces will lack the surface area needed to stick and can fall off days after application. To be safe, we recommend that all pieces of pre-spaced decals should be at least one-half inch in diameter. You can also print some or all of the decal on clear material, which will produce the same effect.

The registration symbols above the blue line are easier to read and more durable than the ones below the line because they were printed on clear or white material. The symbols under the line are made from kiss-cut vinyl. They are bigger and look more ragged, but they’re more likely to fall off due to a lack of surface area.

4. File extensions indicate usable art

This is a classic case of “don’t judge a book by its cover.” A recommended file extension does not always equal functional art for your graphics company (follow these guidelines when preparing your art for printers). While some high-res raster files may work for your printer, the best art is always in vector format. You can save raster art in typical vector art formats, so seeing “.ai” at the end of your file name isn’t a sure bet that the art inside is a vector file.

5. Bigger is always better

Outputting your art at the largest file size possible might seem like a good way to keep your art looking pretty, but that’s not always the case. With large-format printing, file size can exhaust computers. Save yourself some sanity—and RAM—when you can. Instead, design at a 10% scale. It will scale up perfectly.

If you have to work with raster art, like photographs, scaling is usually a better option than either compression, which can lower quality, or lowering your resolution. To follow the standard, save at 300 dpi. Sometimes, however, bigger is the only option—say, a giant banner on the side of the building. In those situations, we recommend scaling to one-tenth or one-twentieth of the size while maintaining that 300 dpi resolution. In the end, the size of your project will determine how small you can scale the art, but balancing size and quality should always be the goal.

Pro Tip: To save time and emails, add the scale to your file name to help your printer know what size it should be when they open the artwork.

Feeling smarter? Go ahead and share this post with your friends so they can feel smarter, too. Have some questions, or maybe know another printing myth that should be debunked on our blog? Shoot us an email and get the conversation started. We’d love to hear from you.

Shawn Van Pelt

First up, our graphics guru himself, Sales Manager Shawn Van Pelt. He’s been with Graphics Output for 11 years and has 36 years of experience in the printing industry.

Shawn started out his career in print production at the age of 19 – first in pre-press and finishing, and later, press operation. Over time, his natural approachability and wide breadth of knowledge gave way to his natural progression to sales.

­He prides himself on his material mastery and ability to match the perfect build to each job’s requirements. If you’re looking for an expert on all things print, Shawn is the problem-solver you need.

Sharon Schiffbauer

The second in our series was Sharon Schiffbauer, beloved VP of Operations.

Mariah Lewis

Next, we turned the focus to Mariah Lewis, Customer Experience Team Manager, and her Graphics Output career that was unexpectedly predicted at age eleven.

Emily Motherwell

The fourth featured face of Graphics Output was Emily Motherwell, Customer Experience Specialist.

Emily graduated from Ball State as a Visual Communications & Graphic Design major. She participates in regular art shows and is a #1 Cat Mom and lover of all animals.. Before coming to Graphics Output in 2021, she accumulated experience as an art camp teacher, in various customer service roles, and as a graphic designer for an embroidery and print company.

Todd Barhydt

Rounding out the last of our “History Behind the Heroes” series was our Creative Director, Todd Barhydt.

While we enjoyed highlighting the history of the faces and voices you are most likely to interact with, we also wanted to feature the ones you don’t often see. Behind every hero stands more heroes: our star production crew, working hard to perfect your printed parts.

­

We treasure our dedicated team and are thankful for the family-like relationships that we’ve built over the years. Each employee is an evangelist of Graphics Output and the printing industry, and we will continue to have a lot of fun working, learning, and growing together.

Still want to learn more about the amazing employees at Graphics Output? Follow us on Facebook, LinkedIn, and Instagram for monthly employee spotlights and fun behind the scenes videos.

Speedy Gonzalez. Quicksilver. Sonic the Hedgehog. Road Runner. Rapid prototypes.

Prototype FYIs

What are prototypes used for?

Quick-turn prototypes are mainly used to make or confirm design decisions before final production, but they can also be used for display purposes ahead of a full run. They can be made for labels, overlays, logo decals, and much more.

What exactly does “rapid” mean?

The term “rapid” is a bit vague by design. The turnaround time for rapid prototyping often depends on the production process and the customer’s needs, but it most often ranges from 24 hours to ten days.

Why isn’t every job rapid? Why just prototypes?

Ideally, The Flash would work for all graphics providers full-time to really keep things moving, but since the scarlet speedster is often off saving the planet, there are a few key factors that make quick-turn graphics prototyping possible:

• Low quantity: Prototypes have typical runs of 20 or less, which means less time is spent in production.
• Lack of tooling: When possible, prototyping uses digital printing and cutting to save time on tooling creation and set-up—and it saves you money on tooling fees.
• Stock materials: Using materials that your graphics supplier has on the shelf means there’s no wait time to get the material from the vendor to the production floor.

YES, I need a prototype

Testing end-use

Imagine designing a graphic overlay, ordering 1000 of them, getting them in your assembly workers’ hands, and then finding out that they don’t work as desired. Maybe they don’t fit where they are supposed to go or a cutout is slightly too small. Whoops? Not using a prototype can mean a serious loss of time and cash if you aren’t careful. Instead, use them to check tolerances and fit, test adhesives, time installation, and even evaluate user interface.

Design decisions

Material selection, color approvals, or comparing various text or logo sizes can be made much easier with prototyping. Swatch books are helpful, but they can’t compare to seeing and holding a finished product.

Displays and demonstrations

Advertising for a new product usually occurs before its release or even before production. Trade-show demos, marketing campaign photoshoots, and investor pitches all might require label or graphic prototypes to hype up the unreleased product.

NO, I don’t need a prototype

These babies cost a pretty penny, so save your money when you can. Skip the prototypes for simple decals, small non-critical revisions to already prototyped parts, and overlays that use the same size and placement as other already-purchased parts.

You might also get away with cutting corners. Non-printed or color-swatch-only samples can give you a good feel for the end design without the need for a full prototype. Skipping on embossing might also make sense for your job, and it can save time and tooling costs. Your print provider should be able to guide you through what you need and don’t need after a thorough discussion.

Swatches on a desired material can be used to confirm color matches and will give an overall feel for what the final part will look like.

Still wondering if prototyping is right for your project? Get in touch with us at 260-748-0577 or sales@gographicsoutput.com, and we’ll help you find the samples to fit your timeline and budget.